The energy that some need to stay alive!
There is a giant among the medium/short size surfers in the world and his name is Owen Wright. He is 23 years old and he’s from Australia
He heights 190cm which is more 15cm than the world champion Kelly Slater. His wingspan is longer than Michael Phelps. Apparently everything is balance, otherwise it wouldn’t be good to watch him surfing.
And you can see the giant in action. He doesn’t look giant, does he?
Winter brings cold, wind, rain, snow and some big stormy days.
Last past weeks there has been some storm days around Europe. In some places there were snow and cold, in some other places there were really strong winds and heavy rain.
In Portugal storm can bring huge waves and yesterday it was massive at Nazaré, it could break the record again, they say.
While we wait for that epic moment, I leave you here with Nic Von Rupp in a big and freezing day at Ireland just a few days ago. Nic is German, but his surf is Portuguese, his surf comes from the Portuguese beaches.
Nic was on his way to Hawaii when he decided to cancel his trip and went chasing the swell in Ireland.
Let’s imagine this scenario.
You wake up really early to do a 45 minutes surf session, just before you go to work. You stop your car, you look at line-up and you can’t believe it: a perfect day, the sets are lining up perfectly and no one is in the water.
You put your wetsuit on and you start to prepare your surfboard by getting rid of the old wax. You are so excited that you remove it all. You want to be perfect, your surfboard must be perfect for those waves.
Then you start searching for your new wax bar, the one you bought yesterday in that surf shop miles away from where you are now. You search everywhere, but you can’t find it, then you realise that you forgot it on your kitchen’s countertop.
You look to your surfboard, now fully undressed of wax and you hopefully wait for someone to come and spare you a 1/4 wax, but no one comes. You take another look at the line-up and those beautiful waves pumping up, perfectly and no one to ride it. All you want to do at that moment is cry.
Surf sessions ruined because you don’t have the wax or a cord to attach the leash happens more often than you think.
Bizuka, a surfer and an entrepreneur and my beloved little brother, was tired of those ruined surf sessions so he came out with this brilliant idea: make these two products available where they are most needed …in the beach. With 1€ coin you can have a 1/4 wax bar and a cord leash packed in this funny bubble.
So now you have no excuse to miss another surf day, all you need is 1€ coin.
All photos by Andre Carvalho
Normally when you look at photos of a big surf day, what you expect to see is a great surfer riding a big wave, you expect the photographer to highlight the size of the wave.
I like to stare at those photos and try to measure the size of the wave, looking at the surfer and how he embraces that huge mass of water.
But what happens if the photographer turns the rules up side down, and the waves, big in reality, are showed as tiny little things with tiny little creatures? The result is beautiful images that seems to be taken out from a magical place.
Look what the renowned surf photographer Tim Mckenna did in a perfect surf day at paradise by “tilting” Tahiti. It is breathtaking isn’t it?
Today is the International Surfing Day.
Surf is one of my passions since I was twelve.
Surf, for me, is not just a sport, it goes beyond that. When you are in the ocean riding a wave you feel so free. It’s so hard to put into to words, it feels so good.
The ocean has this powerful thing: it gives you a positive charge of energy.
Sometimes it can be rough, but, even so, you always want to come back.
It’s just like this astonishing video produced by Salon Alpin.
An amazing video, it just blew me away.
I believe that everybody has this place, this special place where they want to come back over and over again.
For me that place is Arrifana. A beautiful beach in Southwest of Portugal.
I know that are other places not so crowded and as beautiful as Arrifana, but this is my place and I just have to go back, every year, I just have to.
When I went there for the first time, back in the early nineties, I fall in love. Since then, I came back every year, first with my friends, then with my husband and now with our kids.
We just enjoy being there and do the same things every time: surfing, build towers with those beautiful rocks, walk along the beach. We always are the last ones to leave. After the sunset we take a last splash, drink a beer (imperial) and walk all the way up with that amazing sunset portrait.
The Southwest of Portugal is full of amazing beaches. I have a list of my favourite beaches and some of then are little secrets.
If you go there and have car, just explore, get lost and find your special place. (all photos by Andre Torgal)
Please, be honest when you think of surf you imagine sand beaches, girls in bikinis and palm trees, isn’t that right?
But Surf is about the waves, so where there are waves there will be surf. And there are waves in the ice cold waters of Canada and so there is surf, good surf!
North is a film of three days of surfing at Tofino.
GotSurf is a Canadian surf media and they have some cool videos on Vimeo, check it out.